The Maremma is a vast area covering part of southern Tuscany, notably the province of Grosseto, and a small part of northern Latium (Lazio). This was once the homeland of the Etruscans, the mysterious civilization which dominated central Italy before the emergence of the Roman Empire and whose legacy can be explored throughout the area.

The Maremma can be divided into the Alta Maremma (upper or northern Maremma), and Bassa Maremma (lower or southern Maremma).The Alta Maremma exteds from Grosseto northwards to Cecina River just south of Livorno while the lower Maremma extends along the Albegna and Ombrone rivers down the coast to the Argentario and beyond, The latter is the least populated area of mainland Italy and, despite being a great destination for the historian, nature-lover and sun-worshipper alike, it is still remarkably off the beaten track.

The charm of the Maremma is enriched by its livestock-raising traditions. The ‘butteri’, skilful cowboys, were talented enough to beat Buffalo Bill in 1911 when he challenged them to a contest at breaking colts. The Maremman cattle-rearers still remain proud of this victory and hand down their skills from father to son.

Leaving behind the small village of Talamone, the Via Aurelia Etrusca leads to the mouth of the Albegna river and to the Tombolo di Giannella, a sandspit which joins Monte Argentario, once an island, to the mainland. The sea currents have built a second sandspit, or “tombolo” between the “island” and the mainland thus forming a large lagoon, which is known as the Laguna di Ortobello,. The scenery of the Monte Argentario, which reaches 635 metres at its highest point is dramatic, with headlands, bays and shingle beaches.

The town of Orbetello is set right in the middle of the lagoon by the same name and is linked to Monte Argentario through a road built over an artificial bank that dividing the lagoon into two stretches of water (respectively called the Eastern Lagoon and Western Lagoon). Orbetello is a lively and busy town whose principal resource has always been fishing. Local seafood is regarded as the best in the whole district so if you happen to be there around lunch time, take your chance to visit one of the many restaurants serving the local seafood specialties.

Before heading inland to explore the main Etruscans centres, it is worth visiting the hill-village of Capalbio, with its perfectly intact medieval centre. Capalbio is also know for a rather unusual attractions known as the Tarot Gardenan, an artistic park composed by monumental sculptural inspired at the Tarots which took the artist Niki de Saint Phalle 20 years of work. If you are lucky enough and you happen to visit Capalbio during the second week of september, you will have the chance to see many Italian celebrities hanging around and you can also attend the traditional wild boar festival. During other periods of the year, you can always pay a visit to the Pieve di San Nicola, the Collachini Palace or the Vulci National Museum in neraby Canino.

Leaving the coast, the road travels deep into the hills of the Marrema with the towns of Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana forming a triangle enclosing the protected area known as “City of Tufa” (from the volcanic rock used for centuries as building material). You will almost certainly fall in love with Pitigliano as soon as you will have the chance to lay your eyes on it. Build on a stone spur in a wild landscape, Pitigliano blends perfectly into the rock. From its position high above the lush valleys and twin rivers, Pitigliano affords stunning views, ones which have been enjoyed for many centuries as the local Roman and Etruscan ruins are testament to. The undeniable influence of the Jewish community, which dates back to the 15th century, is still very evident in the local cuisine.

Northwest of Pitigliano you will find Sovana, another important Etruscan town dating back to the 7th century BC or even earlier. The ancient capital of this part of the Maremma and once a rival to Siena, Sovana is now a little village with ancient ruins and Romanesque architecture. North of the town is the Etruscan Necropolis containing over 100 tombs, many of which can be explored, beginning with the most spectacular of them all, the famous Tomba del Sileno.

Just a few miles down the road from Sovana, Saturnia is another stunning place to visit. This little village is filled with traces from eras dating back to the Romans, as well as a handful of absolutely mouth-watering restaurants. If you would like to indulge in a little pampering, the local spa complex which grew up around the sulphur springs, waterfalls and streams is a magnificent place to visit. The Etruscans who built the town are thought to have used these bubbling turquoise waters in their religious ceremonies.

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This article is part of a series meant to describe some travel itineraries in the lesser known areas of Tuscany. You can find similar articles covering the Casentino Valley, Lunigiana and the smaller islands of the Tuscan Archipelago.

Bob McCormack

The Maremma is a vast area covering part of southern Tuscany, notably the province of Grosseto, and a small part of northern Latium (Lazio). This was once the homeland of the Etruscans, the mysterious civilization which dominated central Italy before the emergence of the Roman Empire and whose legacy can be explored throughout the area.

The Maremma can be divided into the Alta Maremma (upper or northern Maremma), and Bassa Maremma (lower or southern Maremma).The Alta Maremma exteds from Grosseto northwards to Cecina River just south of Livorno while the lower Maremma extends along the Albegna and Ombrone rivers down the coast to the Argentario and beyond, The latter is the least populated area of mainland Italy and, despite being a great destination for the historian, nature-lover and sun-worshipper alike, it is still remarkably off the beaten track.

The charm of the Maremma is enriched by its livestock-raising traditions. The ‘butteri’, skilful cowboys, were talented enough to beat Buffalo Bill in 1911 when he challenged them to a contest at breaking colts. The Maremman cattle-rearers still remain proud of this victory and hand down their skills from father to son.

Leaving behind the small village of Talamone, the Via Aurelia Etrusca leads to the mouth of the Albegna river and to the Tombolo di Giannella, a sandspit which joins Monte Argentario, once an island, to the mainland. The sea currents have built a second sandspit, or “tombolo” between the “island” and the mainland thus forming a large lagoon, which is known as the Laguna di Ortobello,. The scenery of the Monte Argentario, which reaches 635 metres at its highest point is dramatic, with headlands, bays and shingle beaches.

The town of Orbetello is set right in the middle of the lagoon by the same name and is linked to Monte Argentario through a road built over an artificial bank that dividing the lagoon into two stretches of water (respectively called the Eastern Lagoon and Western Lagoon). Orbetello is a lively and busy town whose principal resource has always been fishing. Local seafood is regarded as the best in the whole district so if you happen to be there around lunch time, take your chance to visit one of the many restaurants serving the local seafood specialties.

Before heading inland to explore the main Etruscans centres, it is worth visiting the hill-village of Capalbio, with its perfectly intact medieval centre. Capalbio is also know for a rather unusual attractions known as the Tarot Gardenan, an artistic park composed by monumental sculptural inspired at the Tarots which took the artist Niki de Saint Phalle 20 years of work. If you are lucky enough and you happen to visit Capalbio during the second week of september, you will have the chance to see many Italian celebrities hanging around and you can also attend the traditional wild boar festival. During other periods of the year, you can always pay a visit to the Pieve di San Nicola, the Collachini Palace or the Vulci National Museum in neraby Canino.

Leaving the coast, the road travels deep into the hills of the Marrema with the towns of Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana forming a triangle enclosing the protected area known as “City of Tufa” (from the volcanic rock used for centuries as building material). You will almost certainly fall in love with Pitigliano as soon as you will have the chance to lay your eyes on it. Build on a stone spur in a wild landscape, Pitigliano blends perfectly into the rock. From its position high above the lush valleys and twin rivers, Pitigliano affords stunning views, ones which have been enjoyed for many centuries as the local Roman and Etruscan ruins are testament to. The undeniable influence of the Jewish community, which dates back to the 15th century, is still very evident in the local cuisine.

Northwest of Pitigliano you will find Sovana, another important Etruscan town dating back to the 7th century BC or even earlier. The ancient capital of this part of the Maremma and once a rival to Siena, Sovana is now a little village with ancient ruins and Romanesque architecture. North of the town is the Etruscan Necropolis containing over 100 tombs, many of which can be explored, beginning with the most spectacular of them all, the famous Tomba del Sileno.

Just a few miles down the road from Sovana, Saturnia is another stunning place to visit. This little village is filled with traces from eras dating back to the Romans, as well as a handful of absolutely mouth-watering restaurants. If you would like to indulge in a little pampering, the local spa complex which grew up around the sulphur springs, waterfalls and streams is a magnificent place to visit. The Etruscans who built the town are thought to have used these bubbling turquoise waters in their religious ceremonies.

–

This article is part of a series meant to describe some travel itineraries in the lesser known areas of Tuscany. You can find similar articles covering the Casentino Valley, Lunigiana and the smaller islands of the Tuscan Archipelago.

Bob McCormack

You may have seen chocolate coins in bright gold and silver colored wrappers in the stores around mid-winter. Unless you’re Jewish, you might not have known what these coins were for. While they’re simply a tasty treat for the rest of us, these coins are a part of the Hanukkah celebration for Jews – they’re called gelt, which is Yiddish for money.

Gelt is often given out to children to help them enjoy the holiday. Sometimes the gelt is in the form of real coins – the equivalent of stocking stuffers – and larger gifts of money from grandparents. Gelt given in Israel is called dmei Hanukkah. In addition, those who visit Hasidic Rebbes during the season may receive coins, as a blessing. However, there’s also chocolate gelt.

Modern chocolate gelt can look like current coins or like antique ones. Each gold or silver wrapper is stamped to look like a coin, complete with a face side, tail side and writing. The chocolate beneath is similarly stamped. Little bags of these confections can be easily found in drug stores, grocery stores, high end chocolatiers and other places where delicious chocolate is sold. Of course, the price of the gelt will reflect the quality of the chocolate inside.

Gelt in the form of chocolate coins is a mostly twentieth century innovation. It makes a fun gift for children, and can be used instead of real money in dreidel games. Playing with a dreidel is a big part of the Hanukkah celebration for Jewish children, since it commemorates a period where Jews were not allowed to study Torah by the Romans. To hide the fact that they were really engaging in forbidden religious practices, playing dreidel games arose. Roman soldiers who encountered someone playing these games assumed that they were gambling, not studying.

A dreidel, called a sevivon in Hebrew, is a spinning top with four sides. Children play with it for Hanukkah, and each side has a Hebrew letter imprinted on it. These letters are an acronym for a Hebrew phrase meaning “A great miracle occurred there”. This refers to the miracle of the oil that Hanukkah celebrates.

After the lighting of the menorah, it’s appropriate to play the dreidel game. Each child starts out with ten or fifteen coins, which may be real, or can be made of chocolate. The players spin the dreidel, and depending on which side the top falls on, they either win markers from the pot or have to give up some of their coins. There’s more than one way to play the game, and many games keep going until one player has all the chocolate coins.

Chocolate coins are a tradition dating back many centuries. They were enjoyed back then and are equally enjoyed as much today. They are always a treat and even more exciting since they are reserved for the rare special occasions. Chocolate coins are something everyone remembers getting as a child well into their adulthood and then giving them to their own kids.

Chris Alleny

The Maremma is a vast area covering part of southern Tuscany, notably the province of Grosseto, and a small part of northern Latium (Lazio). This was once the homeland of the Etruscans, the mysterious civilization which dominated central Italy before the emergence of the Roman Empire and whose legacy can be explored throughout the area.

The Maremma can be divided into the Alta Maremma (upper or northern Maremma), and Bassa Maremma (lower or southern Maremma).The Alta Maremma exteds from Grosseto northwards to Cecina River just south of Livorno while the lower Maremma extends along the Albegna and Ombrone rivers down the coast to the Argentario and beyond, The latter is the least populated area of mainland Italy and, despite being a great destination for the historian, nature-lover and sun-worshipper alike, it is still remarkably off the beaten track.

The charm of the Maremma is enriched by its livestock-raising traditions. The ‘butteri’, skilful cowboys, were talented enough to beat Buffalo Bill in 1911 when he challenged them to a contest at breaking colts. The Maremman cattle-rearers still remain proud of this victory and hand down their skills from father to son.

Leaving behind the small village of Talamone, the Via Aurelia Etrusca leads to the mouth of the Albegna river and to the Tombolo di Giannella, a sandspit which joins Monte Argentario, once an island, to the mainland. The sea currents have built a second sandspit, or “tombolo” between the “island” and the mainland thus forming a large lagoon, which is known as the Laguna di Ortobello,. The scenery of the Monte Argentario, which reaches 635 metres at its highest point is dramatic, with headlands, bays and shingle beaches.

The town of Orbetello is set right in the middle of the lagoon by the same name and is linked to Monte Argentario through a road built over an artificial bank that dividing the lagoon into two stretches of water (respectively called the Eastern Lagoon and Western Lagoon). Orbetello is a lively and busy town whose principal resource has always been fishing. Local seafood is regarded as the best in the whole district so if you happen to be there around lunch time, take your chance to visit one of the many restaurants serving the local seafood specialties.

Before heading inland to explore the main Etruscans centres, it is worth visiting the hill-village of Capalbio, with its perfectly intact medieval centre. Capalbio is also know for a rather unusual attractions known as the Tarot Gardenan, an artistic park composed by monumental sculptural inspired at the Tarots which took the artist Niki de Saint Phalle 20 years of work. If you are lucky enough and you happen to visit Capalbio during the second week of september, you will have the chance to see many Italian celebrities hanging around and you can also attend the traditional wild boar festival. During other periods of the year, you can always pay a visit to the Pieve di San Nicola, the Collachini Palace or the Vulci National Museum in neraby Canino.

Leaving the coast, the road travels deep into the hills of the Marrema with the towns of Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana forming a triangle enclosing the protected area known as “City of Tufa” (from the volcanic rock used for centuries as building material). You will almost certainly fall in love with Pitigliano as soon as you will have the chance to lay your eyes on it. Build on a stone spur in a wild landscape, Pitigliano blends perfectly into the rock. From its position high above the lush valleys and twin rivers, Pitigliano affords stunning views, ones which have been enjoyed for many centuries as the local Roman and Etruscan ruins are testament to. The undeniable influence of the Jewish community, which dates back to the 15th century, is still very evident in the local cuisine.

Northwest of Pitigliano you will find Sovana, another important Etruscan town dating back to the 7th century BC or even earlier. The ancient capital of this part of the Maremma and once a rival to Siena, Sovana is now a little village with ancient ruins and Romanesque architecture. North of the town is the Etruscan Necropolis containing over 100 tombs, many of which can be explored, beginning with the most spectacular of them all, the famous Tomba del Sileno.

Just a few miles down the road from Sovana, Saturnia is another stunning place to visit. This little village is filled with traces from eras dating back to the Romans, as well as a handful of absolutely mouth-watering restaurants. If you would like to indulge in a little pampering, the local spa complex which grew up around the sulphur springs, waterfalls and streams is a magnificent place to visit. The Etruscans who built the town are thought to have used these bubbling turquoise waters in their religious ceremonies.

–

This article is part of a series meant to describe some travel itineraries in the lesser known areas of Tuscany. You can find similar articles covering the Casentino Valley, Lunigiana and the smaller islands of the Tuscan Archipelago.

Bob McCormack

The Maremma is a vast area covering part of southern Tuscany, notably the province of Grosseto, and a small part of northern Latium (Lazio). This was once the homeland of the Etruscans, the mysterious civilization which dominated central Italy before the emergence of the Roman Empire and whose legacy can be explored throughout the area.

The Maremma can be divided into the Alta Maremma (upper or northern Maremma), and Bassa Maremma (lower or southern Maremma).The Alta Maremma exteds from Grosseto northwards to Cecina River just south of Livorno while the lower Maremma extends along the Albegna and Ombrone rivers down the coast to the Argentario and beyond, The latter is the least populated area of mainland Italy and, despite being a great destination for the historian, nature-lover and sun-worshipper alike, it is still remarkably off the beaten track.

The charm of the Maremma is enriched by its livestock-raising traditions. The ‘butteri’, skilful cowboys, were talented enough to beat Buffalo Bill in 1911 when he challenged them to a contest at breaking colts. The Maremman cattle-rearers still remain proud of this victory and hand down their skills from father to son.

Leaving behind the small village of Talamone, the Via Aurelia Etrusca leads to the mouth of the Albegna river and to the Tombolo di Giannella, a sandspit which joins Monte Argentario, once an island, to the mainland. The sea currents have built a second sandspit, or “tombolo” between the “island” and the mainland thus forming a large lagoon, which is known as the Laguna di Ortobello,. The scenery of the Monte Argentario, which reaches 635 metres at its highest point is dramatic, with headlands, bays and shingle beaches.

The town of Orbetello is set right in the middle of the lagoon by the same name and is linked to Monte Argentario through a road built over an artificial bank that dividing the lagoon into two stretches of water (respectively called the Eastern Lagoon and Western Lagoon). Orbetello is a lively and busy town whose principal resource has always been fishing. Local seafood is regarded as the best in the whole district so if you happen to be there around lunch time, take your chance to visit one of the many restaurants serving the local seafood specialties.

Before heading inland to explore the main Etruscans centres, it is worth visiting the hill-village of Capalbio, with its perfectly intact medieval centre. Capalbio is also know for a rather unusual attractions known as the Tarot Gardenan, an artistic park composed by monumental sculptural inspired at the Tarots which took the artist Niki de Saint Phalle 20 years of work. If you are lucky enough and you happen to visit Capalbio during the second week of september, you will have the chance to see many Italian celebrities hanging around and you can also attend the traditional wild boar festival. During other periods of the year, you can always pay a visit to the Pieve di San Nicola, the Collachini Palace or the Vulci National Museum in neraby Canino.

Leaving the coast, the road travels deep into the hills of the Marrema with the towns of Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana forming a triangle enclosing the protected area known as “City of Tufa” (from the volcanic rock used for centuries as building material). You will almost certainly fall in love with Pitigliano as soon as you will have the chance to lay your eyes on it. Build on a stone spur in a wild landscape, Pitigliano blends perfectly into the rock. From its position high above the lush valleys and twin rivers, Pitigliano affords stunning views, ones which have been enjoyed for many centuries as the local Roman and Etruscan ruins are testament to. The undeniable influence of the Jewish community, which dates back to the 15th century, is still very evident in the local cuisine.

Northwest of Pitigliano you will find Sovana, another important Etruscan town dating back to the 7th century BC or even earlier. The ancient capital of this part of the Maremma and once a rival to Siena, Sovana is now a little village with ancient ruins and Romanesque architecture. North of the town is the Etruscan Necropolis containing over 100 tombs, many of which can be explored, beginning with the most spectacular of them all, the famous Tomba del Sileno.

Just a few miles down the road from Sovana, Saturnia is another stunning place to visit. This little village is filled with traces from eras dating back to the Romans, as well as a handful of absolutely mouth-watering restaurants. If you would like to indulge in a little pampering, the local spa complex which grew up around the sulphur springs, waterfalls and streams is a magnificent place to visit. The Etruscans who built the town are thought to have used these bubbling turquoise waters in their religious ceremonies.

–

This article is part of a series meant to describe some travel itineraries in the lesser known areas of Tuscany. You can find similar articles covering the Casentino Valley, Lunigiana and the smaller islands of the Tuscan Archipelago.

Bob McCormack